8a - a personal milestone!

Today I fulfilled a long-term dream of mine and sent my first 8a "Pilsnergernerasjonen" at Syltøy, out on the islands west of Bergen. The route crosses a blank slightly overhanging wall on tiny holds, with two distinct boulders at the top. As with all routes at this crag its a test of technique and endurance, as subtle variations in body positions and which crystal one stands on can make a huge difference.

We got lucky in early July and had two weeks of sunshine so that I could hang up my draws and link all the moves. It took me ca 5 sessions to send it on lead, surprisingly it went already on session 3 on toprope without spending energy to clip. I found my own unique para-climbing beta on the crux (you can see it in the send video below) involving some powerful shoulder moves and a fun "twist the the knob" move where i switch from pinch to undercling. I will remember this route and all the great people climbing on it with me and belaying me for a long time, thanks so much!

If you ever have the chance to climb around Bergen Syltøy is my No.1 recommendation for its beautiful lines, seaside vibes and clean crimps! Just avoid the full summer sun if you can.

https://ute.bergenklatreklubb.no/felt/syltoey?topo=1&tab=routes

Now the rain has come back to Bergen so its back to the gym or Loddefjord :-D

On of the many falls on the dyno boulder:

Send go on the second boulder: